44, Rue Jean Pierre Timbaud, 75011
Tel. 01.43.57.16.35
Astier already had a couple of strikes before we even tasted the food. I called ahead because I had to knock our 5 person reservation down to 3 and, in an apparent act of retribution, they threw us in what was unapologetically the shittiest seat in the house.
I somehow drew the short straw, but before I could take my seat in what seemed like an 18” gap between the bar and the window, the waiter had to pull another occupied table out of the way so he could move ours. Grinning and cracking smartass comments all the way, he waited for me to crawl in then shut off my exit. The bastard was clearly enjoying the entire thing.
Now I may sound a little bitter, which I was, but a tasty bottle of Tourraine soon took began to mellow me. The waiters continued being jackasses, an act that actually started to grow on me as I continued on the wine. By the time the food began arriving I was getting to be just fine with my claustrophobic little niche.
My first course looked fantastic. It was a fresh “field salad with wild flowers.” Unfortunately, the flowers were certainly pretty, but they didn’t particularly add much taste. I will grant points for trying, however. Christian made an interesting and fully informed choice, the description for which I will defer to him.
My main course was lamb, which was utterly spectacular. This was hands down the best I’ve had in France. It was perfectly tender, flavorful, and was lightly sprinkled with coarse salt. It wasn’t a huge portion, but I savored it as long as I could.
One of Astier’s signatures is their cheese course. They place a very large wicker plate full of at least 15 different varieties on your table and let you go to town. We certainly did — I love cheese. I tried everything and then went back for seconds. There may have been thirds. Eventually the waiters rescued their poor plate, but not after the damage had been done.
Dessert was very nice as well. The best was Christian’s Baba au rhum, a wedge of dry cake, drenched in a light rum sauce. Fantastic.
Things hadn’t looked good for them at the beginning, but by the time I was released, I was a major fan. Definitely one of my favorite places we’ve been so far; I would go back at the mere suggestion. The 4 course menu runs 31€, but with wine we each paid about 40€.










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