The Great Parisian Plate Debate

15, Rue Marbeuf, 75008
Tel. 01.49.52.07.17

« Je le prends à point, s’il vous plait. Et aussi une bouteille de vin rouge. » That’s all you need to know when you’re ordering at Le Relais de l’Entrecôte. They only serve one appetizer and one main course. The menu, which you’re not even automatically presented, has more wine choices (not necessary) and dessert (not earth-shattering). The line outside that perpetually snakes into the street is here for just one thing: the steak-frites.

With the exception of L’As de Falafel, this is probably the restaurant I’ve eaten at the most throughout my last year living in Paris. It’s easy, fast (by French standards) and to date it’s consistently the best steak and fries I’ve had in Paris.

Within minutes of ordering everyone is served a light salad with walnuts and a mustard dressing. Shortly after you finish and your plate has been cleared, the waitress brings out trays piled high with fries and sliced steak glistening in The Sauce. I’m not exaggerating when I say that people line up in the rain for this stuff. I’m not entirely sure what’s in it, but there are rumors of foie gras.  I think it’s probably just chicken liver, but nothing says pure decadence like a forkful of crispy fries and steak, all slathered in what may be the richest sauce ever served at 500 plates a night.

I always start by throwing a healthy dollop of spicy mustard on my plate then go to town. Just as you’re mopping up the last traces of the sauce from your plate, the waitress returns with your second helping.  The first time I realized just what was happening I may have shed a few tears of joy. When I move back to the States, this is the one place I know I’m going to come back to when I visit Paris next.

Service is brusque and it’s the only place I know where the check is routinely delivered before it’s requested. It’s not too cheap, but if it wasn’t worth it, I wouldn’t keep going back. Skipping dessert and splitting a bottle of the house red between three people comes to about 30€ each. I highly recommend you get in line by 7 when it opens, because if you don’t, you’re probably going to be in for quite a wait.