The Great Parisian Plate Debate

http://www.hkmenus.com/

Last night I had the excellent fortune to enjoy a last-minute invitation to the Hidden Kitchen.  Christian had been trying to go since January but had never been able to match their availability with his schedule.  Thanks to a last minute cancellation he was squeezed in, and as his girlfriend was out of town, I was called in to make sure he behaved himself.

Full disclosure: I met hosts Laura and Braden last fall on my first visit to HK.  I had never been to an underground restaurant, but enjoyed the experience so much that I have since returned twice.  I’m also happy to say that since then, Laura and Braden have become two of my best friends in Paris.  They are frequent dining companions and were even present for the first GPD dinner.

HK follows a unique and enviable formula: twice a week they put on the twelve person dinner party you’ve always wished you could.

Arriving at 8, guests are met with an aperitif which facilitates the introductions amongst guests.  Eventually everyone takes a place at the communal table and the dinner begins.  The meal consists of highly seasonal dishes prepared from local market produce.  Courses change on a weekly basis and I’ve never seen the same thing twice.

The food is principally Nouveau-American, carefully paired with wines from independent French producers.  While there are ten courses, the portions are perfectly sized and the dinner is spread out over the entire evening, so you’re always ready for the next course.  Each dish is elegantly plated and Braden’s menus sport intriguing and innovative flavor combinations.

I won’t try to describe all ten courses, but some of the favorites were the corn soup, the house take on green eggs and ham and the duck.  The photos certainly speak for themselves, and I heard nothing but praise from the entire table.

If you want an intimate meal, keep looking; this is a dinner party.  Inter-party discussions last the whole night, and initial questions such as “Do you live in Paris or are you just visiting?” lead quickly into fascinating discussions spanning the gamut.  Last night’s crowd was quite multinational, with America, Canada, France, New Zealand and the UAE all represented.  The group dynamics were terrific and everyone had a great time.

While it’s not cheap, considering the quality and care taken in the preparation, I consider it an absolute bargain.  I shudder to think about how much a similar meal would easily cost in any Parisian restaurant crazy enough to attempt it.

While I’m sad to say that Laura and Braden are spending the summer back in the states, they are returning in the fall and moving to a larger apartment.  I just hope I will be able to dine with them again before I leave France.