The Great Parisian Plate Debate

2, Rue Pradier
75019 Paris, France
Tel. 01.42.00.43.30

I think my favorite culinary trends in France today is the cave à manger. The very idea is just fantastic in its simplicity. Take an independent wine shop, usually small and family run, then add a few tables and serve food. The menu and maturity of the food spans the gamut, and for me that’s part of the charm.

One of my favorites is Le Garde-Robe, which doesn’t even have a kitchen. You could argue that it’s really a wine bar, but even so, they prepare an impressive range of damn tasty tapas, using space forged out behind their small bar. On the other side of the spectrum, you have higher end places, such as Les Papilles, in the 6eme. Much fancier, there is a chef, but no menu, per se. When you arrive, the owner explains the four courses the chef has prepared that day and then if you wish, he will help you choose your wine. Their menu is constantly changing, influenced by both the market and whim of the chef.

As I was perusing the 19eme for an interesting restaurant, I was quite excited to find this promising establishment. Located just a few blocks away from Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Mon Oncle le Vigneron is the wine shop du quartier, and I was pleased when I arrived, as it certainly has plenty of character.

The windows and walls are full of wine and spirit offerings, and the decor is a cozy blend of exposed walls, colorful tables, and seemingly random accents strewn throughout. On the far side of the room is the exposed kitchen, not much larger than that of a nice apartment, and separated by glass dividers, giving you a bit of relief from the noises and smell. Run by a husband and wife team, when I walked in, I was greeted warmly and seated at the largest of the 4 tables as while I waited for my companions.

They didn’t have a menu, and the wife explained to us (in French) our four choices for appetizers, and waited patiently as I translated for my companions. We took her recommendation of a fresh chèvre with olive oil and peppers, and also ordered a “pâté piquant.” The chèvre was attractively displayed with hearty dusting of paprika and diced red peppers. The olive oil was particularly good, with nice earthy flavors that really complimented the whole cumin seeds sprinkled on top. I think it was the cumin seeds that really set this one apart. After a slight pinch of salt, this entrée really snapped, and we collectively demolished it. The pâté piquant was perfectly fine. Not really spicy, it didn’t particularly stand out, but nothing to complain about.

Before the main course, we were served a very tasty green salad dusted with toasted sesame seeds. The dressing had a light heat from a sharp mustard or wasabi that went well with the sesame.

We asked for recommendations of a wine for the main course, and were offered a 14,50€ (including the 6€ corking fee) bottle of oak barrel aged Cahors. At first this red was intensely woody, but as it aerated, it opened nicely, and was actually a choice pairing with the main course. After we ordered the bottle, she realized that she didn’t have any available in stock (the bottles baking in the window are empties), and as the husband had ducked out for a minute, she politely asked us to watch the store so she could walk outside and around to their storeroom to bring in a new case.

The main course was stewed pork with olives, served up with rice topped with the toasted sesame seeds. While it wasn’t fancy, it was carefully and attractively plated, honest, and tasted like something mom could have made. The olives had lost most of their flavor as they stewed, and had they been more flavorful, I think they would have given it the edge it was missing.

We split the cheese plate, which consisted of brebis slices served with black cherry preserves. We were advised to eat them without bread, to really enjoy the subtle flavors. It was a good combination, as the black cherries had a particularly rich, but not too sweet flavor that matched nicely.

The bill came to 88€, which included 3 glasses of wine as an apperatif, two entrées, salad, 3 plats, a cheese plate, coffee, and a bottle of wine, making the damage about 30€ each. I’m definitely going to make a point of coming back. Quiet and low key, it was perfect for a lazy Saturday afternoon, a meal where I want to relax and am not looking for a big production.

Christian: Leave it to Dan to pick up on the simplicity of a restaurant. We’re talking about a gentleman here who prefers velcro to laces and a juicebox to a glass, so we shall let that speak for itself. Admittedly, though, I must agree - I was a big fan of this place. As someone who is still suspicious of any cheese not named “cheddar,” I was joyfully taken aback by both the entrée and the cheese follow up at the conclusion of lunch.