The Great Parisian Plate Debate

10, Rue Roi de Sicile, 75004
tel. 01.42.72.85.85

Le Ravaillac has been in the back of my head almost as long as I’ve lived in Paris. Just a block north of the Saint Paul metro, not only do I have a friend that lives a block away, but I pass it on my near weekly Sunday pilgrimage to L’As de Falafel. The sign proclaiming Polish specialties piques my interest every time I see it.

Even though I was in Budapest a few months ago, in the midst of eating absolutely everything, I somehow managed to miss the pierogies. The situation was dire.

Soon afterwards, leaving work one day, I convinced a couple skeptical friends to accompany me. It was great. The food was simple but fantastic and everyone was happy. One of them said it was among her favorite meals she’d had in Paris. She ended up returning a couple weeks later and then again with me.

I can’t remember what year the sign says, but Le Ravaillac has been there for something like 60 years. When you walk in, the first floor is a narrow bar with an impressive selection of vodka. On the back counter sits a nifty old-school espresso machine powered by a gas flame visible through a slit in the base. Up the staircase is the dining area. Exposed stone, wood furniture and candles gave it a good feel.

While I’m no expert in Polish cuisine, the menu was about what I expected. That is in no way to it’s detriment-there will always be a place for home style cooking. On my first visit, after ordering pierogies, I asked for help with the main courses, and we were pointed towards the excellent stuffed cabbage and the Bigos, which was immediately the favorite. Described as a marinated charcuterie, we didn’t know what to expect. The best way we could figure out to describe it was that it tasted like barbeque.

Comparing it to barbeque is high praise in my book. It’s right up there with Mexican as one of the foods that American expats constantly bitch about missing, and even though it was cabbage based, it had plenty of meat, and this smoky delight was as flavorful as some of the best BBQ I’ve had in the States.

On my second visit I arrived late and had to choose quickly. Intending to order the Bigos again, forgetting the name, I mistakenly ordered the “Choucroute Speciale.” We also got an order of both the meat and the potatoes and cheese pierogies.

While not cheap at 9€, the two full plates were well worth it. In case you haven’t had the pleasure, pierogies are an eastern European dish that could be roughly equated to an overstuffed ravioli. They were pan-fried, crunchy and delicious. I enjoyed them both, but have always preferred potato.

When my meal was served, I was a little disappointed when I realized my error. I soon got over it, and while the sauerkraut was good, the meat really stood out. The best was a fantastic pork chop with crispy pan-fried edges. A decadent sprinkling of coarse salt gave the crust brilliant bursts of flavor. The kielbasa was crisp and tasty, as was the bacon. I’ll probably go back to the Bigos for my next trip, but it was very satisfying.

The meal for 4 people included 2 apps, 2 bottles of wine and 4 main courses, coming to 117€ or 30€ each. I suspect Le Ravaillac will quickly become one of my regulars.